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New to this.. first let me start by saying, Hello!
i recently inherited a 31 Model A from my grandfather. The car was purchased by him in the late 40's and he did a ground up resto as the car was a "field car"...i remember taking rides in it when i was younger and him taking multiple first finishes in local car show. Flash forward to today, the car has been sitting for at least 12 years and probably hasen't been started in about 8-6 years. My grandfather was a mechanic and meticulous in nature but in his failing health was just not able to keep up what it took to keep her running. It saddens me to say that in starting my own life i was not able to get to him to learn everything i need to know about this car. my first order of business is checking the fluids and trying to turn her over.. at this time i am looking for the "inside" information...the things you guys know that the books do not. I am a mechanic (in training) so i have a very good mechanical comprehension, i just want to make sure i am doing things right. |
Re: New to this.. Well you found the right place to ask. That's good. Welcome to the forum. Need a little information. Does the engine turn over with the hand crank??? If it does your half way there. I would pull the plugs and look down the hole while cranking to see if the valaves are moving. If they are moving then you are 75% there. Drain the fluids and replace with new, put a good battery in it and try to start it. Most of them will take right off. A little sand paper on the points won't hurt either. Once you get it running then you can start diagnosing any problems.
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Re: New to this.. My first step and yours should be to buy Vol 1 of the Les Andrews Model A book. Step 2 is to buy the Ford Owners manual for your year car.
Many places have the books.....Synders in Ohio is one excelent choice. Do you have any books for the Model A ? Marc |
Re: New to this.. i am fortunate enough to have the original owner manual, and "Model A Ford: Construction, operation and repair for the restorer" by Victor W. Page.
I will get some pics of the car up tonight, i haven't tried to hand crank yet as i cannot find the hand crank and i know i shouldn't just hook up a battery and crank..lol thanks for the quick reply's folks |
Re: New to this.. When you hook up your battery, it is a positive ground system. I worry about insulting new people with tips like these, but it's the simple stuff that will catch you. If you already knew, sorry, and keep us posted.
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Re: New to this.. how was it stored? in a good climate? I would drain the oil and put new oil in and fresh gas... and what others said.. keep us updated... if you can get it on video trying to start... I'm a huge fan of this!
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Re: New to this.. It was garage kept in the northern Thumb area of Michigan. The car is a 31 two door tudor (i think?)..hold on i'll snap some pics
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Re: New to this.. the lighter areas are just dusty..brown cab with plumb (almost black) running boards
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Re: New to this.. Welcome to the club ADNC. What you may want to consider is draining the oil and make sure it comes out black and not milkshake colored. Then add new oil and with the plugs out spin it by hand to get the new oil through out the engine and then redrain. This will get any sludge dirt etc. out of the pan.
Also, look in the tank and make sure there is no rust, sediment etc. that could get in the line and then the carb. If there is then blow it out with a compressor put the line back together and fill it up. Don't forget to check the brakes and all of the linkages before you take her out. It would be a nasty surprise to not be able to stop. Also, the bearings may need some grease. Sorry for the list and stuff you may already know about, but this is my 2 cents worth. Mike |
Re: New to this.. That is a nice looking tudor. Congratulations. The picture of the motor may be telling you that you have a bad head gasket by the amount of rust but I wouldn't be to concerned until you fire it up and here it run.
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Re: New to this.. Quote:
I see someone added a tension strap for the generator. It isn't needed, as the belt doesn't need to be very tight. I also see that someone used an early rear end plate (ball bearing) on a late generator Mid 1930-1931. You can just leave it if you want, but since the car has not been used for so long, it wouldn't hurt to polarize the generator. After the battery is installed with + ground, then just take a short wire and jump across the two terminals on the cutout for one second, then start the car. |
Re: New to this.. 3 Attachment(s)
When its time to grease her she might have the original style grease fittings, not zerks like today. Here is the Adapter for modern guns.
You might find an original style laying around or under the seat also. Another thing, the steering box, trans, and rear use a 600W lube that is about 200 weight. Some use a mixture of other type lubes. . Attachment 83191 Attachment 83192 Attachment 83193 |
Re: New to this.. Nice car. The seats look to be in good condition. I found my crank unser the fromt seat. Since your appears to be a tudot it may be under the back seat. Good luck.
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Re: New to this.. 1 Attachment(s)
Also looks like an original fan, check it real good for cracks in the hub area.
Bob |
Re: New to this.. Thank you all, In addition to the car i have tons of NOS parts so i will replace anything i need too, but tomorrow i will start with the basics. drain her dry, refill and leak check, turn over manually, and take it from there. she needs a good cleaning as i want to enter her in a local car show this summer (the same one she won in the 61, 62, 65, and 70)
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Re: New to this.. I'm sure Grandad will be pleased. Looks like he left it in good hands. May you enjoy many years of happy Model A'ing. Grandad will always be sitting beside you as you drive.
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Re: New to this.. Before I start an A that hasnt run for multi years,I change the oil & pour a quart down the dist hole & the other 3-1/2 quarts in the filler tube.This gives the mains & cam brgs oil before the engine is even turned over.After its well warmed up,then change the oil again in the normal way.I like to use 15-40 or 20-50 oil for summer & 10-30 for winter.
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Re: New to this.. A helpful tool is the search bar. You can find a lot of info fast by using a quick search because many of your questions may have already been covered already. There's a ton of knowledge on this forum so you have come to the right place!
Welcome to the Forum! I too have inherited a 31' A from my Grandfather. It sure is something special! Have fun with it! |
Re: New to this.. ADNC,
Don't believe anything they tell you about Me! Welcome, and seriously, may I add a couple of things to all the great previous advice. Torque the head,55 Ft. Lbs, first thing, and a jar of Bars-Leaks soon as you get it running. Don't assume that trans. & diff. are full! Awhile before trying to start, put 2 tablespoons of 90 weight gear oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. This will help "seal" the rings for better compression to help it start. Spin it over with plugs out next day. After gapping and cleaning points, lubing cam lobe,plugs out, long starter crank & eyeball point contact, should be a barely discernable bluish white arc. If arc sometimes flashes out kinda' yellow at times, clean points better or put in new ones! Remove small bottom carb plug, turn on gas to make sure gas is getting into carb. After you've run it a fair amount, put in new plugs. Happy Motoring Bill W. (Oh yes! buy & install that little standpipe filter that goes in the top of the fuel shut off valve!!) |
Re: New to this.. Hey there ADNC!! I hope you keep us updated on your Tudor. I like following along with folks during there revival of these cars. I inherited my 1930 Tudor from my Grandfather as well and it has been a great experience going through it. I know you will share the same joy with your 31!
Drew |
Re: New to this.. All good and just to add more, I would first do the thumb compression test. Remove all of the spark plugs Put your thumb over the plug holes, one at a time while you reach over and push down on the starter switch. As the engine turns, If your thumb is getting a good seal over the plug hole, It will pop your thumb off the plug hole when the piston comes up on compression. Any cylinder that doesn't do this, will have no compression. Usually if it has no compression on a cylinder, this will indicate that a valve is stuck in the open position on that cylinder. If two adjoining cylinders have no compression this will usually indicate a blown head gasket. There is a narrow gasket area between the 1&2 and 3&4 cylinders but not narrow between 2&3. This narrow gasket area can blow out and you will lose compression on the adjoining cylinders but there will be no coolant entering the cylinders or the oil pan because the water jacket won't be exposed in such cases. If you have good pop your thumb off the spark plug hole compression , this is a very good sign and it should be pretty easy to get it started.
If it was running when parked and nobody has fooled with the distributor it should still be in time. Providing that it was in good time, the only way that you can mess up and get it out of time is by loosening and moveing the points cam. Most timing instructions are VERY confusing to the newbee and I wouldn't recommend changing the position of the points cam until it can be determined that it is necessary. Like Bill W says, clean the points real good. The points will almost always oxidize when they have sit up for a while, This is usually the reason that most won't crank after sitting up. After sanding or filing the contacts of the points until all oxidation and pits are removed and the contacts show clean metal, I would then check and set the gap. I set mine at .022 but anything from .018 to .022 will do. The wider points gap gives more dwell and a hotter spark. In my book, hotter spark is always better. With all of that completed I would check to see if the distributor and coil is good. With the plugs out and the ignition switch on, hold the end of the coil wire about a quarter inch from a head nut while turning the engine over with the starter. If the dist. and coil are good you should get a good strong blue spark from the coil wire to the head nut. If all checks out good, fuel flow to the carb will be the next test. The float valve in the carburetor can stick in the open or closed position. In some cases tapping on top of the carburetor with a wrench will jarr the float valve and solve the problem without removeing the carb. If all has checked out and you have compression, spark and good fuel supply to the carb without leaks, you should be ready to crank. Push the spark lever all the way up in the fully retarded position. turn the GAV (choke knob) about one half turn or a little better to the left, off the seat. Pull out the choke, turn on the switch, mash the starter button or pedal. When it turns over about once let off the choke. If it cranks pull the spark lever down before it quits. When it warms up a bit you will need to turn the GAV to the right until is is about one quarter turn off the seat or the engine will be running too rich and begin to lope and emit puffs of black smoke out the exhaust. Hopefully this will get you started, if not come back with the symptoms and I will try to give more things to try. Good luck. |
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