Rear hub play
 

I had my car on jack stands this weekend and as a matter of course, jiggled the rear wheels. I noticed a bit of in-and-out play on the passenger side rear. Not sure if I can measure it. It definitely ain't the lug nuts.
About a year ago I checked and re-torqued those nuts to 100lbs.

Is that play a bearing issue or something other?

Thanks
Leo

Re: Rear hub play
 

I would think that in and out would be the axle nut and associated washers, or the differential, Fred, am I wrong again?:cool:

Re: Rear hub play
 

Simple enuf to find out, remove the axle nut and then the hub and see if the lateral play is still there. I suspect it will be differential carrier wear and worn spider gears that are allowing the axle to move in and out.

Re: Rear hub play
 

Won't do the axle seal any good if its the spider. Bob

Re: Rear hub play
 

Two possibilities come to mind. The first, it could be wear to the flat sides of the spider gear three legged axle, and or to the flat sides on the inboard end of the axle shafts.

The second, and more likely, is that the carrier bearings have "spun" on the carrier mounts. When this occurs metal is ground off the bearing stops on the carrier and it creates slop. This can be corrected during an overhaul of the differential. Spun carrier bearing mounting hubs can be knurled and shims can be placed behind the bearing.

If it is not severe and the car runs well I would not worry about it. The majority of Model A's on the road have spun carrier bearings. An easy three quarters of the ones I take apart I find the bearings spun. It comes from the last mechanic who had the differential apart for repair and not understanding the need for setting proper pre-load.

Tom Endy

Re: Rear hub play
 

Tom, thanks for the insight on loose carrier mounts. I was ready to write off several that I have set aside. You use the shim stock to push the bearings back out to their designed position? Knurling is probably preferred to staking. Bob

Re: Rear hub play
 

Bratton sells the shims for the carrier bearings. They are each .005 thick. I think they are about $1 each. It is best to order a quantity as you may have to stack them as much as .015. You determine how many to use during the pre-load setting procedure.

The criteria for scraping out a carrier half is two-fold.

1. If the bearing has spun a great deal there may not be enough metal left to bring it out with knurling so that the bearings will press on snug.

2. The inside of the carrier often has wear cut into it by the back side of the spider gears. Often they are found with a wear step at 1\16" of more.

You can also match up orphan carrier halves by matching the wear patterns.

Tom Endy

Re: Rear hub play
 

I dont know why guys torque the lug nuts to 100#,just tighten them good & tight by using the socket on the hand crank.The length of offset on the crank will keep the lug nuts from being over tightened. Lateral end play of 1/16"or less is nothing to worry about on axle shaft.Even more end play likely wouldnt hurt anything.

Re: Rear hub play
 

I think he was talking about the AXLE NUT !!!!

I am with Brent...
( Differential carrier wear and worn spider gears that are allowing the axle to move in and out )
I just helped a buddy with a 34 rear that go all bagged out. His axle mover in and out about 3/16 the carrier was junk
It now has .006 of in and out play

Re: Rear hub play
 

Tom Endy,
You ARE talented! Maybe you could fix my knee that moves in & out. Something about a torn ACL.
Safety wire, perhaps??--Bill W.