Pilot Bearing options I am working on a flywheel which needs a new pilot bearing. I have a couple available. One is a sealed bearing and the other is an oilite bushing. Which one would you chose for trouble-free longevity? :confused:
Thanks Tom |
Re: Pilot Bearing options The sealed bearings hold up well and last a long time. By the way what is the number on the bearing?
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Re: Pilot Bearing options The only choice is the bushing if you want 100% foolproof operation. Only one bearing has to lock-up for the message to come through loud and clear. As for wear? I don't think anyone will have a problem within the balance of their lifetime.
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Re: Pilot Bearing options bushing. if bearing fails it can destroy the input shaft .also if it gets stuck to the shaft either by heat when bearing fails or rust to the shaft you have some job removing the trans.
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Re: Pilot Bearing options Terry-
There is no number on the bearing. I suspect it is a "well-traveled" (China). Tom |
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Re: Pilot Bearing options Bushing.
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Re: Pilot Bearing options Ordinarily we recommend a bushing too.....HOWEVER, if the main drive gear pilot (the front tip end that goes into the pilot bearing) is worn, a bushing can allow additional movement of the main drive gear. We're talking small amounts here, but the caged type roller bearing is not a precision fit in there. If the drive gear can move out of axial alignment, you could have a mild misalignment of the synchro teeth to the synchro sleeve as it shifts into high gear. Just food for thought.....
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Re: Pilot Bearing options I prefer using a ball bearing as a pilot bearing with the following construction/qualifications:
1. Well known, high quality bearing manufacturer 2. Bearing must be packed with a good high temperature grease 3. Seals on both sides of bearing Most of the failed ball bearings that I have seen on early V8's were open face or shielded face bearings. These type ball bearing constructions allowed the grease to come out and the dirt to get into the race area causing failure. I have seen the oil impregnated bronze bushings fail early when heat caused the impregnated oils to bleed out. If anyone wants to see examples of shielded vs. sealed pilot bearings I could add some pictures here. I may even have some failed bronze bushings that I could take pictures of for those who think they are not prone to failure. |
Re: Pilot Bearing options John, Please post the pics. I've never seen a failed bushing.
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Re: Pilot Bearing options John,
What is the mfg/part#/source for the sealed bearing you use? Thanks John |
Re: Pilot Bearing options John, A great set of pics. Thanks!
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Re: Pilot Bearing options I was referring to the caged roller bearing (B-7118) used on all 1932-48 passngr & pickup light duty 3 speed trannies. The ball bearing (51A-7025) that holds the main drive gear is another piece in the puzzle.
If you take a BRAND NEW main drive gear, with a BRAND NEW ball bearing, and a BRAND NEW roller bearing, on a BRAND NEW main shaft, you can still wiggle the front pilot end of the main drive gear/input shaft with your fingers. The pilot bearing (sitting in the flywheel) is an important final component in the general alignment of the input shaft/main drive gear. |
Re: Pilot Bearing options This is one of those questions that I never really make up my mind on. I guess it come from too many years of working with sealed bearings on helicopters that ended up having to have the seals pulled and re-greased on a date schedule. Many of the sealed types can go for many years without a re-grease but it really depends on how long it is. Even the best grease will start to cake up in about 4-years from the time it is initially squirted in there. After that it is anyones guess how long it will be till it quits doing the job.
Then you have the phosphor bronze soft metal bushing alternative. It depends on the small amount of lubricant that was baked in at manufacture to lube it. They will wear more or less depending on the invironment as well. The ball is the best if a person plans on yanking the engine out every 8 or 10 years to reservice it. Most of us probably don't drive our old Ford products every day. If it's a daily driver, you will be putting a clutch in there somewhere down the road in 5 to 10 years. If you only drive it a few times a month and keep it in the garage in bad conditions the phosphor bronze bushing would probably be OK. Kerby |
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Besides, bushings don't seize and to wear like the one in the picture either a) something is wrong, or b) there's a heckofa lot of miles on it. In either case, it will probably keep you out of trouble longer than a bearing! |
Re: Pilot Bearing options This is a debatable subject that will never be totally agreed upon by everyone. I have some of these sealed clutch pilot ball bearings that have been in service for years on non daily drivers and they are working well. Anyone replacing a pilot bearing/bushing will need to make their own decision based on the facts and experience they have. Personally, I'll continue using quality sealed ball bearings w/high temperature grease as pilot bearings in my vehicles. If or when I can't get these ball bearings, I would probably use an oil impregnated bushing.
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Re: Pilot Bearing options John the egged out id on those pilot bushings probably was the cause of someones annoying clutch chatter!
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