water in oil
 

I have a rebuilt Model A motor, done by a reputable local builder that I'm having some problems with getting water in the oil. The first time I had a couple of studs loosen upand the water ran over the head gasket and into one of the cylinders. This time I couldn't see where it had been getting in but it was just in the pan, not in the cylinders. I had the block and head surfaces checked and they were alright so I put a new head gasket in it ( one for a "B" or Hi-Comp head) and torqued it down. I ran it for twenty minutes or so and then let it sit overnight. The next day I retorqued it again and I let it run for a obut 20-30 minutes. While it was running I noticed a drop of milky liquid drip fro the filler/breather tube. I looked in the tube and it was very milky. I pulled the dipstick but the oil looked good. I never cleaned out teh oil filler tube when I cleaned up the valve chamber and I'm sure there was still some of the old oil left in the block or pan someplace as I didn't try to flush it. Will I get some of this for the first oil change or two after something like this happens? I had straight water in it, no antifreeze.

Re: water in oil
 

You MIGHT just have condensation in the oil at this time, if the air temperature is cool and you are not getting the engine very hot when you run it in the driveway.

A little bit of combustion gases leaking past the rings (common on a new rebuilt until the rings seat well) will bring a lot of water vapor with it. The water is a byproduct of combustion, not from the cooling system. (This is why you see water dripping out of the tail pipe also -- it is from burning gasoline in the engine.) The only place for "blow by" that goes past the rings to leave the engine is through the oil filler neck. If it is cold, the water vapor condenses there, forming the milky goo you see.

So, before you freak out, go drive the car more and don't just run it in the driveway. Drive it gently during break in, but drive it. Get the engine up to normal operating temperature for at least 20 minutes to cook off the water. Re-torque head when engine is cool again. Repeat until no more it taken up on the head nuts. Repeat again in a few hundred miles. Then maybe 500 miles after that. Don't over-torque, just bring back up to your target torque.

You may be good to go.

Re: water in oil
 

My T get condensation anytime the humidity is up. Did you seal the head gasket or put on dry. Part of the reason you need to run an engine till it's up to temp is if you just start it and shut if off the engine dose not get hot enough to evaporate the condensation. After it hot and dried out there should be a thin oil coating even on your cylinder walls to help protect the metal from rust.

Re: water in oil
 

I agree.. It sounds like you'll get some milky oil for awhile.. The head will probably need 3 or 4 tightenings and just drive it with distilled water with rust inhibitor until you know whether its OK or not..

Re: water in oil
 

if you are using the silicone-type gasket rather than the copper one you will need to re-torque the head MULTIPLE times before it seals fully. been there, done that.

Re: water in oil
 

We are assuming you are using the correct torque sequence. Izzat right?

Re: water in oil
 

I used the silicone type gaasket for a Hi-compression head from Snyders and did NOT put any kind of sealer on it. And yes, I used the proper tightening sequence when I torqued it down. If it warms up I'm gonna take it for a little jaunt and drain the oil again and refill it and see what happens. Is ther esomething I can put in with the oil that will help cut the remaining water in the oil pan?

Re: water in oil
 

I think that someone advised that when torquing the head that you should back off the nut slightly before bringing it back to spec. This makes a lot of sense to me as you eliminate stiction.