Steering stabilizer
 

I am new to the Model A so be gentle. I just purchased a 31 roadster PU and the truck goes pretty smooth to about 45 mph, however anything over that it get pretty shaky up front. The tires were new when I got the truck and have balance weights on the wheels. A friend who is familiar with these vehicles suggests a steering stabilizer. Any thoughts?

Re: Steering stabilizer
 

Welcome to the world of Model-As, ...and to Fordbarn!

Since you are new to Model-As, I suggest you find someone who is a little more mechanically versed in them to give your pick-up a complete mechanical check-up. A steering stabilizer is really nothing more than a "mask" to cover some deficiency up. A "shaky" front end is not normal and could be dangerous if left uncorrected or if it was masked by the stabilizer. My suggestion is find the root problem and correct that first. Not sure exactly where Custer is, but hopefully there is a Model-A club with knowledgeable members close by.

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Yep, what Brent said.. Find and fix the problem and you'll be OK.. Heck, that may be cheaper and faster than the stabilizer..

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What Brent and Patrick said. Still, for some Model As 45 mph is a comfortable top end, though some on this board speak of tooling along comfortably at 60+. My favorite driving is poking along at 35-40 on back roads.

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Thanks for the input. Unfortunately there are no clubs close to me. Custer,SD is in the Black Hills of SD, we are thirty miles from the WY border and sixty miles north of the NE border. I'm fairly mechanical spent my early years playing with cars and when I joined the Air Force worked on B-36 aircraft and the KC-97s, before becoming involved with the SAC command and control systems. Most recently riding motorcycles till the hips and knees started giving out, ergo the "A". Looking forward to a fun time. Will celebrate the wifes 86th birthday this Friday with a ride in the park. Fred

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Keep it the way Henry made it he knew what he was doing.

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Three quick checks before your ride with the missus. Check the ball at the end of the front radius where its sits under the bell housing. Make sure its together correctly and snug. Check the toe in on the front wheels, and check for play where the pitman arm attaches to the steering sector shaft. Of course, every other moving part is suspect in the system, these are just the suggested to get you looking.

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Sounds like the old school methods are still in vogue. Thanks for the input.

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I agree with all of above, especially Farrell's specifics about where to start. However, to check the radius ball, you're going to need a picture. There are several good books out there, and you really should get a few--unfortunately, there is no one definitive "shop manual". I would start with Les Andrews' books, then the Model A Service Bulletins, then the various volumes published by MAFCA. There are several good parts suppliers, but you have to be alert for marginal repro parts; usually, the vendors will be candid about this IF YOU ASK. Snyders and Brattons are great and handy for east and midwest. I've only heard good things about Berts in CO, which may be handiest for you--they also deal in original used parts, which are usually your best way to go. Welcome to the hobby!

Steve

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Thanks again, I have the Les Andrews book and two new catalogs with the third one on its way. Will try and tear into it today if the temperature will go down a bit.

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Steve & Phill at Bert's are awesome. 800 321 1931

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not to be different , but i have run a steering stabilizer for like 12 yrs . no problems & i like it . but as others have said , get the front end correct . i use it for my own preference ............ steve

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You need to get together with Steve Schmidt, as he lives in the area and is a good Model A guy. I'll send you his address and phone number.

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I had the same problem on my 31 sw . I rebalanced the tires and it solved the problem.Mine started shaking at about 55 mph . If this does not fix it follow the other folks suggestions .

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Thanks, will appreciate any help I can get. Fred

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I agree you need to check and fix any problems you find. Then decide on a stabilizer. I find the stabilizer helps even with a tight front end. I am sure henry would have put them on like they do the modern cars of today.

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I am not sure where Custer SD is located. There is a club in Spearfish, SD called the Black Hills Model "T" Club. They have members with Ts, As ,Bs, v/8s and A/8s. Call Clauser Machine Shop and they will provide you a lot of information. Gloria Clauser knows when the meeting are held and the breakfasts. They go on tours and it is a real nice club. There must be about 10 machinists in the group. None of this quarter of an inch talk here. They talk in 10,000. of an inch.

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Did some checking and found a few questionable things. The right spindle arm where it goes into the spindle was loose. The radius rod appears to be secure, but the toe in is 1 and 1/16 inches, a bit much I think as the book says 1/16 to 1/32". The left wheel bearing was a bit loose, and the wheels appear to be out of balance. No one in Custer will try to balance them, so I spit into the wind and balanced them on the spindle not too good I'm afraid will get it to town soon and get a pro to do it. Haven't set the toe yet will tomorrow and then see where we are.Fred

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Rechecked the toe in with the front end jack up and got a different measurement. It measured just 3/8" toe in. What am I missing? Which is right, I really thought the measurement would be the same both on the ground and jacked.

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Slop in king pins, bearings, and other connections all gets gooshed to one extreme when wheels are hanging and other extreme when weight of car is on them?

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Then should I follow the instructions in the Andrews book, and set the toe with the front end jacked?

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I agree with Steve. I run stablizers on both of my A's. I have also worked over both front ends. I find the stablizers just give me more control when I am running on a road which has "ruts" in them (have a number of this type of road around here-low budgets). I think with the thin tires (21 in) they tend to follow these ruts and I find the stablizers help me keep the rig on the road when going around 45 to 50.

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Set the toe-in withwheels on the ground,then rollcar ahead several feet & check alignment. anything loose or worn has to be dealtwith first.Then you will find that no stabilizer is needed.Whenever I see an "A" with a stabilizer,I suspect problems with the front end.

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If your toe-in changes that much when jacked up you have something seriously loose that has to be dealt with before you do anything else.The car will be driven with the wheels on the ground,that is where the toe-in should be checked.

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Ford Service Bulletins April 1928 page 239

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One other thing that could throw off your readings is wheel wobble. After 80+ years many are bent and could wobble 1/8" or more. As you measure alignment try to do so at the same spot on the tire.

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I hope you have a great day in the park and happy birthday to your wife and just cruise down to the park at 30 mph

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Check your toe-in with the car on the ground. 1/16"-1/32". I made a measuring jig with copper plumbing, but some guys have used a springed shower rod with reasonable results. But get all the other stuff skookum first.

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I've never used a stabilizer on a model A but its nothing new . I.ve found rusty old model A cars and front ends with rusted pieces of stabilizers still attached. I know that the seventies model CJ 5 jeeps that I had used them and they steered like power steerting when they were moveing, even with P 78 mudder tires.

The loose steering arm, alone could cause the shake, ofter referred to as shimmy. Bad toe in can also contribute. I measure the toe in at the height just under the wish bone. Then push the car backwards until the measureing tool rises to the same level and measure again. I set the toe in at 1/16 closer at the front. I can't balance model A wheels perfectly with lead weights. dyna beads poured into the tube may work better, don't know.

I can feel a slight embalance on the 19 inch wheels on my speedster at 65 mph, it smothes out at at 70.http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/51244/2058672-T150U.jpg

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Mike,
Mine actually forced a gentle, forward bend in the tie rod just slightly to the right of center. I drove a 2" wood wedge between the axle & tie rod & it straightened well & toe in was proper again. I think the shock cylinder had too much resistance. Took the danged thing off, adjusted the 2 tooth box, and it handled well and was easier to turn on short low speed turns. Months later, after a 4 month stay in the horspistal & re-hab, it seemed stiffer on 90 degree slow neighborhood turns, My 19" tires didn't look low and didn't flex when shakin' side to side, dumb ass, I checked & found all tire pressures were down to around 15 lbs!! Problem solved! Seems that most tires lose some air in time, but seem to lose it more rapidly when rarely driven??
Bill W.

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I remember once the back tires on the coupe was low and with an adult in the rumble seat it would cause a shimmy. I noticed the back tires were low. I increased the pressure to 35 psi and cured the problem. A sagging front spring can also cause shimmy.

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The best front end advice I received was when Steve at Bert's refused to sell me a stabilizer and said to fix it right. It was worthwhile advice as we found several serious problems that a stabilizer would have masked.

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I think my problems are solved. Did several things among them, wheel balance, tire pressure set, wheel bearing set, toe in set, test ride went smooth, happy camper. Thanks again for all the suggestions. Fred:):)