Hot rivet installation Lets see what kind of help i can get here. I'm gonna install my prefitted floor pans into my 31 roadster, all parts conserned have been primed on all sides.. Any suggestions from expierence , should I remove the primer at the rivet locations and start with bare metal or is it ok to just rivet over the primer [burning the paint away ] and then reprime those areas.Any help will be appreciated. thanks THE HOOCH
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Re: Hot rivet installation floor pans should be riveted cold. see more recent post and comments on this subject.
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Re: Hot rivet installation With a proper rivet gun and waffle set the rivets set like butter when cold. I restored original pans and painted them prior to assembly. I experimented with pre-painting the heads of the rivets and to my surprise only damaged the paint on one rivet head.
http://abarnyard.com/roadster/images/paint-2.jpg |
Re: Hot rivet installation Wow , yours looks great . hope i can do the same. what kind of proper rivet gun are we talking about. and whats the waffle set up . If you can help me out here I sure would appreciate it . thanks .
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Re: Hot rivet installation The rivet gun that I bought is a 3X rivet gun that I bought from a company called Aircraft Spruce.
The waffle tool I bought from Snyder's. I use the waffle tool in the rivet gun on most of the rivets, and I use one of the (oval head shaped) rivet sets that came in the box with the gun, on the other (head) side of the rivet. I hold the oval head rivet set in an old air hammer. This is a very simple process, but works best if you have a helper. Tommy- |
Re: Hot rivet installation Rivets changed drastically in composition metallurgy and manufacturing technique after WWII. The old rivets were dead soft out of the box because they were headed hot in manufacturing and the alloy annealed dead soft. They cold-set well with both air and hand tools. Most boxes of new rivets are made by cold-rolling and cold-heading. The result is work-hardened metal, out of the box. That property sometimes makes cold setting difficult. Line them up on a fire brick, heat red with a torch, allow them to air cool. Voila! Annealed. They now cold-set easily, like NOS 20's-30's rivets.
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Re: Hot rivet installation Wow, that is sofar the best information I have received. I'm gonna try heating the rivets as soon as possible thanks THE HOOCH
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Re: Hot rivet installation Mike,
Can you tell me the difference of the rivets, before and after annealing, on the Rockwell? |
Re: Hot rivet installation I knew there had to be a difference in the old and new rivets! I've been working with some NOS rivets, had great luck then went to modern rivets and things were not so easy anymore! Thanks VERY much Mike for helping me out!
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Re: Hot rivet installation Quote:
It's actually a bit more complicated than just starting hardness. Malleability decreases in a non-linear relation to apparent hardness in metals/alloys that work harden as hammering (cold forging) progresses. |
Re: Hot rivet installation Quote:
As I said in my post above, the 3/16" floor rivets already set like butter cold. Why mess with them? |
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Re: Hot rivet installation I don't have any "general" rivets, just the Cad plated ones from the hardware
store. When I get some general I will Rockwell them both ways and report back... |
Re: Hot rivet installation Hey Mikek tried your way of heating the rivets cherry red and letting them cool, I used my $20 rivet gun from harbor freight , It worked perfict, so now i ordered the waffel tool as soon as i get it I'll BE ready to try the real thing. thanks so much , a little good information goes a long way. If the waffel TOOL works, you saved me the cost of a new tool . thanks THE HOOCH
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Re: Hot rivet installation After reading this thread, I tried setting some of the 3/16 floor pan rivets cold last night. It worked great. Wish I had done it that way sooner.
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