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Westach Ammeters. 1 Attachment(s)
While perusing the Westach website this morning I noticed they have NEW! 1.5" ammeter or voltmeter that they claim fits the Model A. I am sure they are better than the gauge we get from the vendors as I have used Westach tachs in the past with no issues.
Thought some may be interested. https://www.westach.com/ammeters?Size=1.5%2522 https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...2&d=1708634787 |
Re: Westach Ammeters. I'm not sure 30-0-30 is original. Maybe good for "modern" generator & etc.
The originals of my acquisition are all 20-0-20. Some are chrome ring (or something shiny) Others are flat black ring. These might be from truck service. Joe K |
Re: Westach Ammeters. It looks good. The side view photo of the ammeter makes it look much deeper than a stock ammeter.
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FYI, if you order one and your car is 12v, ask them to install a 12v bulb as it come with 6v bulb. Yes these are back lit. |
Re: Westach Ammeters. They can provide a 20-20 if need be. Consider the thickness as being a precise instrument compared the the import crap !
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Re: Westach Ammeters. They look like nice instruments. I especially like the fact that they are back lit as I drive at night occasionally.
For those of you who have an alternator and don't care to be totally original, I would recommend a voltmeter. It is more useful for checking the health of the battery before starting and during starting, and the health of the alternator once the engine has charged the battery. The voltmeter should register 7 volts for the 6 volt system and 14 volts for a 12 volt system after a few minutes drive time. The voltmeter can also be used to check the health of the starter motor. |
Re: Westach Ammeters. This is very interesting. I'd like to hear feedback from those who purchase a 20 amp version. Does it fit well in the dash? It does look very deep. How accurate is it?
I just rebuilt another generator for my '31 pickup and installed a new EVR. It currently has a Nurex 30 amp gauge that I'd like to replace with a quality 20 amp. |
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interesting thought and please check: i have an alternator, so if i put in a voltmeter, i can connect the two posts in the little electrical box directly. The Voltmeter needs just one connection to one of the posts and another one to ground. I think that is actually less of a fire hazard and it also reduces the wiring behind the (cramped) dash... |
Re: Westach Ammeters. Yes. That is how the voltmeter would be wired up. The wire from the electrical box to the voltmeter and from the voltmeter to ground can be a small gauge. It does not carry a lot of current, just voltage.
In my car I have the ammeter in the normal location and a voltmeter below in an aftermarket bracket. I never look at the ammeter but check the voltmeter instead. |
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AHA thinks I at the time - FINALLY someone has come up with something to replace the pressed aluminum device called an ammeter. My disappointment when the new ammeter was found a "skosh too small" for the opening. The ears BARELY caught the edges of the opening. A rubber o-ring could be used along with the ears to make something that would work - and stay in place reasonably well. But that was not a cheap repop - it could have been made right easily enough at that price. https://www.2040-parts.com/_content/...520882/001.jpg Joe K |
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Re: Westach Ammeters. I recently took a gamble on this one. The price was right and the transaction went great. I even ordered a second one just to have. The bezel is raw aluminum color not chrome. It's been working just fine for months now. Seems good quality not cheap Chinese. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144710704730
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I couldn't fault my "pressed aluminum device." It fit and it worked. I think then it was $4 from Tams - until Tam showed me the more expensive replacement I described above. Might be a good one to put in the toolbox for "trips." The ammeter sort of doubles as a fuse in the world of Ford economy. Joe K |
Re: Westach Ammeters. 2 Attachment(s)
Westach's prices are extremely high.
The most commonly used current sensing mechanism in DC ammeters is aa D’Arsonval meter movement. The D’Arsonval movement is a DC coil-type movement in which the needle is suspended by springs & centered between the poles of an electromagnet. The price of D'Arsonval meters is dependent on the pivot point of the needle. The Model A's ammeter has friction type (metal to metal) pivot supports which reduces its accuracy. To the contrary, more accurate & higher cost ammeters will have jeweled pivot points like the Weston meters. In my opinion, I see no value in spending big bucks for an ammeter or voltmeter for the Model A. In the 2023 catalogs of the major Model A parts dealers, I notice that the stock 20Amp ammeter is not listed, but the 30Amp one is listed for less than $20. |
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My transition from the "pressed aluminum device" to something thought better was "appearance." Chrome is chrome and aluminum is aluminum, and although the couple of original ammeters in my hoard were "age apparent" I hoped to do better than the aluminum device. As I said, the aluminum device was about $4 in 1990, and the thought better was $29.95. A big step for me - but the box was attractive and probably clinched the deal. Today with inflation those prices are about double, with one seller on Ebay listing the exact "thought better and box" at nearly $150. Caviet emptor on that one - perhaps they've solved the mis-fit in the dash? It's always fun to pick up a dashboard at Epping Antique Auto Flea Market for $5 that shows its age, but includes the ammeter - which still works. I paint the escutcheon flat black and it ALWAYS fits. Joe K |
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I have had a Westberg Manufacturing Inc. (Westach)volt meter since 2010 and it still working perfect. BTW, it cost $49.95 back in February 2010. The last $20 ammeter i received had the needle laying on the bottom of the gauge. |
Re: Westach Ammeters. I have had a few chepo ammeters go bad. Yep, the most popular complaint is
the needle popping off. I for one will get one of these better units. I need reliability in my cars, not breakdowns. |
Re: Westach Ammeters. Ruth,
The current draw for a voltmeter is very low. It would probably be OK to have it on all the time if the car was driven on a regular basis. Or had a battery maintainer when parked for a while. Or had a master battery switch that was turned off while parked for a while (and a battery maintainer). In my car the voltmeter is wired to the ignition switch. I have the modern switch with the wiring changed so that the coil does not have voltage when off. |
Re: Westach Ammeters. $95! They're pretty proud of ‘em. I paid only $125 for my first A, and I got the whole car!
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Re: Westach Ammeters. Ray- that is funny.
wowser!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just buy a bunch of originals cheap at the fleas and fixemup! |
Re: Westach Ammeters. I ordered two of the repops mentioned by Alwaysamopar74 off of eBay.
The one in my car I guess is an older repop with a small Ford blue oval on the face. I've never seen one like this before. It must of been for a Ford tractor.:confused: Bob-A:D "Skirts are for Women not Car Fenders" |
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Did you receive it? How does it fit? Would you recommend? |
Re: Westach Ammeters. Westach has both the 20-0-20 and 30-0-30 gauge. They fit the Model A and work perfectly. I installed one last month and I highly recommend it!!!!
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Re: Westach Ammeters. 14 Attachment(s)
Ammeter that came with my early '30 Coupe fried the insulators and melted the contacts to the case aka ground. Roasted the harness and coil too. It was one of those $18.95 cheap-o repros. Very similar to one that a certain Technical Director did a YouTube video on where he rebuilt it, soldered the connections, painted it, etc. That would have taken me a couple of hours.
I replaced my coil and harness. Inspected the T Box and everything else. Plus I installed a fuse. I searched and read here on Ford Barn many positive comments about the Westech Ammeters. I contacted Pete via email at Westech in California. He explained to me they are custom made, set up, tested, and calibrated all in house using Americans and US parts. He said he moved the contacts from the back to the side for concern for shorts, but there was still 9/16" clearance with the contacts on the back. I ordered one. I acknowledged the $95 cost. But, American made quality parts that does not require me to rebuild, solder, and paint before installation was attractive. I understand that a Model A used to be only slightly more expensive, "parts are too expensive", and "foreign made crap", are all comments I have read. I felt that there is an American shop designing and manufacturing a Model A part that looks good, responds quickly to me email in English, and does not need fitment or paint modifications, I would take a chance. I ordered a 6v ammeter with a back light. I immediately received an email that were working on my order and it would be sent once it was built, tested, and calibrated. Upon arriving it was packaged well, included clear instructions, and a statement to contact Westech with any issue. I did email and ask how he suggested the back light is wired and Pete said Model A'ers do it many different ways. The bulb is incandescent and only draws 100 mAmps. (even though I measured 196 mAmps) I am impressed with the quality, the heavy weight, and the looks. I benched tested it and the highest resistance I could get was 0.2 ohms. Then I checked the accuracy and found the device to be dead on accurate in both charging and discharging configurations - I ran 6 volts and various currents flows thru the ammeter, the power source, my multimeter and the Westech Ammeter all were within 1% difference. According to my testing it passed with flying colors. See photos. I emailed said technical director and he said 0.1 ohms - 0.2 ohms is more than satisfactory and safe for a ammeter. Upon installation it was a spot on match. The tabs and indent match perfectly. And, there is plenty of clearance to the gas tank. I am not worried about rubbing the wires at all, over 1/2" of space to the tank. We discussed it in our club and we think that we are going to wire it to the taillights along with the instrument panel light. Since the back light is incandescent I do not want it on all the time, only when it is dark, and I would have headlights on. Drove it last night and it works great. I set my generator at 8 volts for night driving. Gauge measured accurately in charging and with all lights on, it measured 1-2 amps discharge. Overall, I am very pleased with the gauge. It is worth every penny of the $95 because of the build quality, the heavy weight components, it appearance, and the fitment. Thank goodness we have a business in America willing to invest the R & D into rebuilding parts quality parts for us. I will continue to support our US based business knowing that I will pay a bit more. Plus, I will be buying all me gauges from Westech in the future. Thanks, Pete from Westech. Diastole in the Smoky Mountains |
Re: Westach Ammeters. 1 Attachment(s)
I have been asked to share my wiring schematic we discussed in our Model A group about how to wire the incandescent back-lighting bulb. I chose option #3.
Whenever I turn on the headlights, my taillights are energized. This minimizes the time the bulb is on, and therefore elongates it useful life. I ran a light blue cloth covered wire from a supplier, Part # A-14303-B, to the taillight black wire on the undercarriage. Soldered it and insulated it. I used loom, Part # A-13412-LBS, to cover the wire as it proceeded down the firewall from the Terminal Box to the taillight wiring harness. Diastole, in the Smoky Mountains |
Re: Westach Ammeters. I’ve only been in the Model A hobby for two years, and have already purchased a number of parts and accessories which didn’t fit, or didn’t work. They’re doing me no good at all sitting on a shelf in my garage. Id rather buy once and cry once.
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